By Ann Abel
“We’re going to travel better.” That was the refrain of the optimists who thought, back in the confused early days of 2020, that the pandemic was part of some giant recent and everyone would become more thoughtful after they blinked their way back into the world after being locked up for however long. But then the chaotic, record-setting summer of 2022 happened—along with the bizarre idea of “revenge travel”—and showed that very little had actually changed.
Now, though, things might actually be changing. Fringe ideas like “conscious travel” and “regenerative travel” are becoming mainstream, destinations have had serious reckonings with overtourism, and travelers—thoughtful ones, at least—are waking up to their responsibility not to leave places worse than they find them. Fodor’s released a “don’t go” list, and the New York Times just published an ode to responsible travel.
And so, while I used to ask a few mainstream luxury travel agencies for their recommendations for the year head, this time I turned to small business owners who care about principles as well as profits. Here’s what they suggest.
North America
Vermont
While the Conscious Travel Collective also organizes private travel to the Green Mountain State, it’s worth considering the small group tour in autumn, in which founder Tara Bush promises stops that only “a seasoned local stands a chance at identifying.” The itinerary takes in only the sort of locally owned businesses that speak to the culture of this stunning, rural Northeastern state. “From farms, to breweries, to cooking classes and hiking trails, the true character of Vermont comes through with each day,” says Bush. Travelers stay in cozy cabins overlooking Caspian Lake and an historic bed and breakfast in Burlington.
Kachemak Bay State Park, Alaska
The family-owned Tutka Bay Lodge sits in a private cove within a rugged nine-mile glacial fjord at the edge of the Kachemak Bay State Park. It’s a prime spot for viewing wildlife on property. In the winter, travelers can see moose, wolves, blue herons, harbor seals, and otters. In spring, there are bears and whales, and in summer and fall, mountain goats, bald eagles and snowy owls. It’s also a place to taste true Alaskan hospitality. Kirsten Dixon and daughter, Mandy, are trained chefs and cookbook authors, and they’ve also created a cooking school in a converted crabbing boat.
Oaxaca, Mexico
Girls on the Go Destinations curate fun and impactful learning adventures for women only. Their Oaxaca trip goes beyond beaches and shopping tour to take a deep dive into the rich history and culture of this UNESCO-recognized city. The focus is connecting with local women leaders and learning about their daily lives and expertise in weaving, unique black pottery, wooden alebrijes, medicinal herbs and mezcal production, explain managing partners Jane O. Howard and Elise Kloter. Led by local women guides, they’ll hike the historic Camino Real (Royal Trail) of the Zapotecs, part of an ancient pre-Hispanic route leading to the Gulf of Mexico. In Capulalpam, they’ll learn about ancestral healing practices from Zapotec women—six spiritual leaders have invited the group into their sacred space.
Chaco Canyon and Taos, New Mexico
Angelisa Murray is a true believer in the magic of northern New Mexico, and she’s dedicated her travel company, Heritage Inspirations, to taking people to see the state at its most genuine and also its most sublime. In 2023, she’s leading groups into Chaco Canyon—a site that was home to thousands of Ancestral Puebloan people between the 9th and 13th centuries—and the wilderness around Taos for two next-level stargazing experiences. (Both sites are known for Dark Sky viewing.) She and her guests will be in the canyon for archeoastronomy during the spring and autumn equinox and new moon, and glamping in the Taos wilderness during the Perseid meteor showers and new moon in August.
Pacuare, Costa Rica
The pioneering conservation and ecotourism adventure company Rios Tropicales has an impressive rising-from-the-ashes story. Known for its raft-in, raft-out lodge in the wilderness, the company filed for liquidation in January 2021 for obvious reasons, and two months later its internationally acclaimed cofounder died of cancer. But then a passionate group of paddlers, conservationists and adventure tourism stewards, including that founder’s young son, Roberto Gallo, believed that the best could still be yet to come. They secured funding and purchased the ecolodge in February 2022, renamed it Rios Lodge and immediately set about expanding its facilities, vision, and conservation projects in the Pacuare River ecosystem. Now guests choose between rafting or hiking into this remote ecolodge—there’s still no automobile access—and enjoy ziplining, hiking, horseback riding, conservation tours and tree-planting, waterfalls and swimming holes, birdwatching, and visits to a community butterfly garden.
Northern Vancouver Island, British Columbia
Mosaic Earth Travel offers experiences exclusively in lesser-known regions of British Columbia, to “get travelers beyond the busy hubs and connecting with small communities, unique Indigenous cultures and the wildest landscapes that make BC so unique,” says owner Pam Duynstee. Her eight-day North Island In-Depth small-group tour has a focus on sustainable and regenerative tourism, education and creating a platform for indigenous communities to share their stories, with plenty of adrenaline along the way: sea kayaking with orcas, and wildlife viewing in the Great Bear Rain Forest. “In a time of rabid media consumption, social unrest and environmental concern,” she says, “this trip provides an opportunity to slow down and cultivate a broader understanding of our planet.
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